December 2023

Finally, we have a good weather window. It will take us 6 days to get to New Zealand and the weather is looking just how we like it.

We left the marina early in the morning on the 1^st of December but unlike the speedy trip last week when we headed out for our diving, it takes us three hours to get to the exit through the reef that protects New Caledonia.  The surfers are still out here catching the breaks.  It feels even more odd taking our rather big boat in one direction, with little surf boards zipping past us in the other (mild exaggeration on my part as they can’t surf the actual entrance – but it did feel odd).  The exit is well marked and we are finally through and into the open ocean heading south.

Our friends were watching the weather and got to wondering if we were channelling the Old Testament; it looked like we were parting the winds as we progressed down.  We managed to follow a clear path between the weather fronts and it was glorious (mostly).

We are expecting some rough weather to come through at some point and we are hoping it won’t get too bumpy, but I’m a big believer in Murphy’s Law, so we do all the preparation as if we were heading into a storm.  Getting her set up takes a bit of time, but it is worth the peace of mind on an extended passage.  We have double straps holding the tender down (side to side and front to back) and the anchor is tied down with a big ratchet strap.  The usual holding for an anchor goes back along the deck to stop it falling overboard, but in big seas you need to stop it bouncing up and down.  So, we tie it to the bow sprit and use a length of heavy rubber to pad the top edge of the anchor shank (so it doesn’t wear the strapping).  You can see the bright orange strap in the photo. 

The white tape along the rail on the right is a jackline that we’ve put around the boat for this trip.  Our life jackets now have a safety clip on them that we attach to the jackline if we have to go out of the cabin.  No more having Peter bouncing around up the front securing the anchor on this trip.  To kill some time back at the marina, Peter turned old dyneema line into soft shackles that we use to attach the jackline.

One of the things the photo also shows is that I forgot to turn the dorados (air funnels) around so that they don’t funnel water, instead of air inside.  I have recently discovered that a pair of heavy threaded circular plates that have been lurking, unloved in the bowels of the boat, are for sealing the dorados (always learning).

The Captains’ Log

The apostrophe is correctly located as on our ship the log is made up from both our contributions.  [For legal reasons Peter is the only Captain listed and I am officially listed as the Owner.  The Owner has a legal standing that is useful in certain countries (especially where women don’t have a legal standing).  I like to point out to Beloved that while he may be The Captain, I am The Admiral]

Day 1

Distance travelled 175nm Average speed 7.3knots Seas < 1m swell <0.5m Wind average 12knots Wind max 17 knots

Did not put our stablisers on until 6am today, when the winds swung to the NE and the swell picked up.  We must have picked up the East Australia Current – “Cool Dude” (An arm splits off the coast of NSW and runs along the west side of New Cal and then over the top of New Zealand).  As we get nearer to NZ, we’ll get less push from behind, so enjoy it while we can.

In summary, a lovely day’s passage and would be happy if the next 4 days were similar.  I think the 175nm for 24 hours is a record for our little ship.

Day 2

Distance travelled 173nm Average speed 7.2knots Seas 1.2m swell 0.5m Winds average 14knots Wind max 17knots

Bit bumpier today, but still pretty pleasant.  Big current pushed us up to 8knots for long periods, but then we dropped back overnight to the low 6kts, which pulled our average speed back.  These 2 good days should see us arriving ahead of schedule, in daylight hours on Wednesday (unless we hit some bad weather closer to NZ). 

In summary, another lovely day’s passage and this morning looks very nice.  Saw only our second ship around 2am this morning.  There is not much else out here.

The conditions on the second day, put Taz and I down for a few days.  I seem to be developing seasickness – something I am unfamiliar with, and I must say I don’t like it.  

Taz is an old hand when it comes to being seasick; he just sits drooling away on his seat. New Zealand doesn’t have set quarantine intake dates like New Caledonia, so Taz is free to travel with us this trip.  At the moment I think he would rather have flown.

My answer to seasickness.  Taz agreed, so we both spend off-shift time sleeping.  The cushion that looks like a fish (Betty the Barra) is perfect for stopping body roll from the swell.

Day 3

Distance travelled 162Nm Average speed 6.8knots Seas 1.2m swell 0.5m Winds average 7 knots Winds max 14knots

Another lovely day and pleasant night, with seas settling down again.  Winds swinging around to the North and swell was beam on for most of the 24 hours.  But with a 10 second period between swells, it was very comfortable.  No current helping us along now, so our average speed has dropped below 7 knots.  But still well above our planned speed of 6 knots.  Today we are on the edge of some weather which is dropping away to the south of us.  Although we may get some showers it should be another comfortable day.  Still look like arriving in daylight hours on Wednesday at this point.

One major event which occurred on the way was Peter’s birthday. We don’t tend to eat too much while cruising on long passages, but this was worth celebrating.  I fear the cakes are getting smaller as he gets older.

Day 4

Distance travelled 181Nm. Average speed 7.5 knots Seas 1.5m swell 0.5 Winds average 10 knots Winds max 13knots

Another good day and a new daily record set.  We have found the current again, along with more northerly winds to assist.  Cloud built up and there is some thunder around.  Rain showers started last night and persisted, but present no issues.  Taz finally has his sea legs and is eating and drinking well.  Suz isn’t quite well yet.  The ongoing condition should still see us arriving in daylight hours on Wednesday (unless we hit some unusually bad weather in the next 35 hours, but there is nothing showing up on PredictWind, our planning tool).  Passed another cargo ship yesterday carrying a huge load of timber.  There was some talk of fishing, but at the moment as soon as we get off shift, we head down to get some sleep.  Today we passed what we think was a Sunfish. Coming onto shift at 9pm I found the sun only just setting – New Zealand really is far down south!

Navigation for this passage is pretty simple. Yachties have to curve all over the place to catch winds, and we do have some motoring friends who are really into their vectors and poles, but we tend to just use a straight line, and as much as possible (depending on sea conditions) keep the green line on the blue line – Simplez.

Day 5

Distance travelled 159Nm Average speed 6.6knots Seas 1.5m swell 0.8m Winds average 13knots Winds max 18knots

Hitting a little wind, which looks like it is also heading for Opua.  We are now below the northern tip of New Zealand which is exciting, but because of the angle we are approaching, we won’t see land for some hours yet. 

Our first glimpse of New Zealand came at 10am this morning.

The winds turned more southerly and the seas became a bit more choppy and coming from the bow starboard quarter rather than from behind us.  Wind picked up further after midnight and is expected to stay around 15knts until noon, then drop off again for the final run into Opua.  Passed two more cargo ships yesterday, and there is also a US catamaran out here which looks like it is also heading for Opua.  At our current speed we should be into Opua by 6pm this evening or maybe a bit earlier if the weather improves.  Sunset is not until after 8pm so all good for light.

We’ve made it.  We arrived at 4:30pm and tied up safely at the quarantine dock.  A big thankyou to everyone that talked or sent messages daily – it is greatly appreciated out on the big ocean.  Now it is beer o’clock (for Peter) and sleepy time for all. We’ll see all the Officials tomorrow.  Taz doesn’t look too happy in the photo; maybe he had an inkling that his journey wasn’t at and end yet.

Day 6

We have to say that the whole entry process into New Zealand by boat is pretty painless, with one huge caveat – make sure all your paperwork and entry requirements are completed, ready and preferably emailed ahead (all are easily found on the various Government websites; Customs, Biosecurity, Immigration). In our case we had the added complication of having a cat on board.  But even so, as we had everything ready and had given lots of notice of our changing eta in the last few days, it only took 45 minutes to Clear-In and take down our Q flag.

Then Taz was placed in a cat carrier and disappeared off to Auckland for a 10-day sojourn in Quarantine. Meanwhile, we moved Opal Lady into our berth in the Bay of Islands Marina and could finally relax and start planning our exploration of New Zealand.

We intend to be in New Zealand for 6 months, until the start of the next Pacific cruising season.  Terry and some friends have brought AraRoa across what Terry prefers to call the Tasman ‘Ocean’ (seriously Terry it’s a Sea) and we will be cruising New Zealand with him and Jenny.

Boat Works

Yes, even while underway and fully prepared!

Replaced light bulb for the Green Navigation light

Navigation Notes

Peter emailed our insurance company (Pantaenius) once we were south of the 30^th parallel.  Insurance for the tropics is about double what we pay further south, but only for while we are there.  The balance of the tropical premium is refunded when we move back down.

Bay of Isles Marina at Opua can get very busy, especially when the winter cruisers come back from the tropics in October-November and over Christmas.  Book your berth ahead of time. They do a good job of working around changing dates – just keep them informed.  There are plenty of safe anchorages around Opua and Russell if needed.

The Quarantine Dock is very easy to find (especially at the end of a long passage).  The most difficult thing about getting to it is watching for the ferries that cross to Russell Island.  The actual dock is very large, well lit and slightly curved.  It forms the outer wall of the marina, is not connected to the land and can only be accessed by boat.  There is a toilet located on the dock.

The Quarantine Dock (and we later found many of the berths in New Zealand) use rings, not cleats for tying up.  I like to walk up the side of the boat and throw the stern or springline around the cleat on the way past.  You can’t do that with a ring; you have to actually step off the boat to thread the line through.  In bad conditions, especially if you are a bit punchy after a long passage (and New Zealand Q Dock is a long passage from everywhere) it could be very tricky.

Taz’ quarantine time has to be booked with an approved facility before applying for an import permit.  The approval for import can take over 4 weeks.  So, start your organising early.  Use approximate dates for the Quarantine booking and Permit Application.  These can easily be changed as you get closer to your actual leaving date (the permit appears to be valid for 12 months). [In 2024, I started Taz’ return paperwork the month after we arrived in Fiji.  The worst that happens is that we decide to stay for the cyclone season and we lose the $400 processing fee.]