Savusavu on Vanu Levu Island, Fiji

June 2024

This Blog entry is all about Savusavu in Fiji and what is available there for visiting cruisers, as it is an entry point for arriving boats.

The Boat Buddies have arrived in Fiji.  We are parked in the Superyacht/Quarantine berths at Nawi Marina.  I do love a berth with lots of room for maneuvering, especially when you are at the end of a long passage.

Today’s cabaret show was watching Terry and the dock crew unload over 20 bags of ‘Girls Kits’ from New Zealand. 

The ‘Girls Kits’ are hand-made, washable sanitary pads, knickers and discrete waterproof bags in a lovely fabric.  They are distributed through hospital programs in the islands and mean that girls don’t miss out on school when they are menstruating – totally brilliant idea.  They are made by volunteers in New Zealand, sorted and then distributed by an Aid group in Fiji.  And cruisers provide the missing link – the transport, which is the killer of so many projects, as freight costs a fortune.  A boat like Ara Roa is a God send; they have plenty of room and weight is not an issue (I’m afraid our weight and room was taken up with a couple of hundred reading books for the remote schools down south in Fiji.)

The kits were not included as part of Ara Roa’s cargo, but were being imported by the Aid organization, so they had to be unloaded for checking by Customs separately from the boat check-in.  Hilariously, they were all loaded back onto Ara Roa a few days later, after a coffee and chat with Jonathan of ‘Sea Mercy’ (the Aid organization, https://seamercyfiji.org/) when he realized we were going to where he needed them delivered (else Jonathan would have had to transport them in batches on his little catamaran, Chez Nous).

I had made up first aid kits from all the supplies that people had given us over the years (nothing out of date as that is not really being helpful) and we gave all of those to Jonathan for his cyclone relief stocks.  Jonathan is also the person who organizes boats for the cyclone season and post cyclone relief in the remote islands. He uses boaties who are small enough to get into storm ravaged villages to find out what they actually need and then he liaises with the larger aid organisations to supply the needed gear and again uses the smaller boats to get the supplies out there – a good bloke.

Welcome from Nawi Marina, opposite the town of Savusavu, on the island of Vanua Levu, in Fiji. We are back in the Pacific – where almost everybody says Bula to you in the street. The temperature is warm but mild with a breeze. The sun bites when there is no breeze, but it is still coolish at night – so shorts, tee shirts and hats, but no need for excessive sweating; just the way I like it.

No sooner had we moved to our proper berth than Peter has me out and about!  We’ve been over to the town of Savusavu on the shuttle (Nawi Marina is on a little island across the river/creek from the town), changed money (the checking-in used all the cash I had brought with us – that Blessed Cat), bought a pineapple and sussed out tonight’s meal options.  Now we are sitting back at the marina coffee shop enjoying a coffee and a slice of banana cake.  Peter is happy, as the coffee shop opens at 7am.

Well, this is a delightful bathroom.  Very well ventilated!!

And lots of hot water.  The Nawi Marina is quite new and rather swish.  In fact, it is still being completed and there is an entire building site on the other side of the marina for another entertainment/dining area and swimming pool. We could use our shower on the boat, but why would you when this is so conveniently located and requires no grey water management. [I did do a quick check of ‘lines of sight’ from the surrounding marina buildings before committing to my totally awesome shower.]

Have a close look at the ‘palm tree’ opposite us in the marina.  We have excellent reception and the birds love roosting in it in the evenings.

Well, no postcard from Fiji for the family this month, as I can’t find any postcards (I’ll just email this photo of the lawn area at the marina!  Savusavu is not really a touristy mecca (although that is rapidly changing).  It’s a place for boaties to check into the country, so it doesn’t have those souvenir type shops (which does make some of us love it even more).  Postcards can be sent from the many resorts, but there are none of those where we were hoping to explore.

Great fresh vegie market though. 

There is a new purpose designed market being built right next door, but it suffered a setback when a defect was found in the construction and the builders had to destroy and rebuild parts of it (so it won’t be completed any time soon).  The current timber and iron building, while not cyclone rated, serves well for the moment.

Nawi is a cyclone rated marina, but it has yet to be tested in that respect.  The Marina is well staffed.  There is always someone waiting to help you with lines, Grace has the office and bookings well organized and the facilities and grounds are kept well maintained by the maintenance crews.  The island facilities include; a diving and water sports shop, bakery, coffee shop, casual restaurant, small general store and a small chandlery.  There is also a boat maintenance business for polishing and caring for boats left at the marina (and there are quite a few that will be staying for the cyclone season this year).  Nawi also organizes social events throughout the week. The swimming pool and associated swim up bar and café are almost finished and will be open before Xmas.

Friday Night is Kava Night

It is a great way to introduce cruisers to the correct way to drink Kava before they head out into the islands – there is more hand clapping involved than you would expect.  I don’t think the marina staff mind ‘having’ to drink Kava on the job either. 

The Friday I went, a local dancing group also performed.  Huge smiles, amazing hip shaking and a wonderful island music rhythm; it always sounds happy.

The path under the restaurant is painted with history (not sure how long until we will need to be painted over, but it’s a nice touch).

We are aiming to get down south to the remote Lau Group of islands.  These islands are some of the most remote in Fiji and we were told to stock up big time with fresh goods – shops are few and far between down there (definitely what we found).

So, six days after arriving in Fiji we were clean, restocked and on the move again.  This time just around the corner, on the same island, while there was a small lull in the SEasterlies.  We were heading to Viani Bay for some diving and to wait for an opportunity to start our trip south to the Lau Group.

CRUISERS COMMENTS:

Most people and many resorts and businesses in Fiji use WhatsApp.  This is great news for us, as we won’t need to worry about buying a local sim.

The marina has a ferry that leaves nominally on the half hour for the town.  To return to the marina, just stand on the little dock near the bus station and wait.  At night, wave your phone light across the water until the security dudes see you.  The ferry is available 24hrs a day.  The boat captain/security dudes are located in an office at the ferry terminal on the island.  The ferry will deposit you on the town dock (directly opposite the marina).  In front of the dock is the bus terminal (it’s always busy).

Going right will take you to the other marina, The Copra Shed.  The restaurant there does good pizzas (not cheap, but you can take away) and the coffee shop has a lovely view.  There is also a nicky-nacky shop, dive shop and a money exchange in this complex.

Keep going to the right and eventually on the other side of the road you will find a white colonial style building set back from the road – this is the Planters Club.  You don’t need to be a member and it serves undoubtedly the best value for money meals in town. You can’t beat a truly huge plate of Fried Rice with Chicken for $8!

Local Custom (especially for cruisers): Kava and Sevusevu and your Sulu

You will need to buy several bundles of Kava root for conducting Sevsevu in the villages.  Sevusevu is the accepted way of presenting yourself to a village. In exchange for the Kava (1 bundle per village), cruisers are granted leave to anchor in their waters, walk around the village, swim and snorkel.  Some places will also give you a guide to show the local sites and ensure that you don’t accidentally break taboos or walk through someone’s garden!  (In Fulaga, you are placed with a family who looks after you while you are there – more on that in a later entry).  Fishing rights around villages are very rarely granted (unless you pay to go out with a local guide).  Local reef fish is often the only protein that the villagers eat, so best left for them, and we have access to the larger, deep-water fish between the islands anyway.  There may be an additional fee for diving or snorkelling in protected areas (some villages are nurturing their reef to marine reserves or growing coral or clams in their waters and the money goes towards this).  Some villages ask for a donation to their building/road fund; for which they will show you what the money is being put towards eg. the road in Deliconi (pronounced Deli-thoni) is a very impressive stretch of reinforced concrete that provides the only all-weather access for the village.  I have heard some cruisers complain about the fees and Kava custom, but really, it’s no great amount of money and we are parking on their turf (I counter with “How would we feel if people kept parking their caravans on our front lawn?”).

Kava root can be bought at the market; it is already wrapped and ready to trade (do not take Kava powder into villages for Sevusevu – the ceremony is about the root).  There are different grades of quality (I couldn’t tell you the difference, as it all tastes of mud to me), but we bought 7 bundles of the $30 Kava.  We only used 5 for our trip south (and 1 was sold to a local who had run out and needed some for the football game that night!).  The stuff doesn’t go off (as long as you keep it dry).

Sevusevu is really quite neat.  It is a standard ceremony which takes the uncertainty out of initial village encounters.  After you land on the beach, pop your sulu (skirt) on (if like me you just can’t manage a skirt in the tender) and ask for the head man.  Everyone knows who you will be looking for and often the dude can be seen walking down to you wrapping his sulu around his waist.  You give him the kava and follow him to the hut/building/mat area where the chief will be.  Take your shoes off before touching the mat or going inside.  The next part is the hardest for us; you are supposed to sit crossed legged while keeping your sulu covering your knees.  Peter was born with tendons made of high tensile steel, flexibility = 0, and I have netball knees.  Your best attempt at the sitting thing is fine.  The ceremony is mostly conducted in Fijian and there is some hand clapping involved – just follow the lead of your head man. If you have no head man to act for you, you place the kava on the floor where the chief can pick it up (not sure why, but putting it directly into his hands is a no-no).  For those of you interested in gender issues, I’m told there are/have been lady chiefs, but we didn’t come across any.

A sulu can be bought in any of the general stores in Savusavu.  You can choose between a traditional/Fijian printed sarong, tourist printed sarong or a formal fitted grey/navy sulu in heavy cotton for men.  The alternative to the sulu for women is a long skirt that covers to at least mid-calf.

Shopping/Stocking Up the Boat

Appropriate gifts that can be bought in the general stores in Savusavu include thongs (flip flops), cheap sunglasses, the world’s largest cooking pots and stationery for schools.

The fresh markets are located directly on your left from the ferry dock. Prices are usually the same across the sellers and there is no bargaining (you’ll need small money for shopping here).  Take a shopping bag (no plastic bags available).  Small items in tubs get poured into your shopping bag, don’t take their tub! You can expect to find; eggs (cellophane wrapped in packs of 30), pineapples, lemons, island limes (bumpy little dudes with a lovely mild flavour), bananas (they will look brown but are fine inside), pawpaw, bok choy type greens (called chinese cabbage), egg plants (aubergine), tomatoes, chillis, cabbage, cucumbers, long beans (some of these developed an unpleasant taste when cooked, so we decided to stick with the smallest size we could find), daro (taro/manioc/pacific starchy root), coriander, capsicum, carrots, onions, sweet potato, and sometimes lettuce.

On the opposite side of the road going left from the ferry dock is a department store where you can buy clothing (a big range of very bright shirts and a sulu if you so desire).

Also up that way is a bakery for fresh bread and what are quite possibly the best chicken pies in the Pacific.

I have never come across a town with so many Supermarkets.  They are moderately well stocked and include some imported goods from New Zealand and Australia; biccies, chocolate, fruit juice, soft drinks, UHT milk (there is no fresh milk in the islands) and imported fruit and vegetables.  Shopping around between them (they are all within a walk of each other) you will find breakfast cereal, but it might not be the specific brand you are used to (no complaints from me as WeetBix and rolled oats are found throughout the south east Pacific).  The local flour came in plain only, but the baking quality was good.  The local butter is well priced (it is saltier than we are used to so allow for that when baking).  Oddly enough, sugar is only available in caster (very fine) form.  I am happy to bake our biccies or cake for our morning tea, especially when a pack of biccies costs $10 (and I already have my stash of TimTams safely hidden away, lest they talk to me and I eat them all too quickly.  Update: I still heard them shouting at me, so they didn’t last as long as I’d hoped).  Kitty litter and basic cat kibble is available, but tinned or wet food is not.  Taz eventually lived on fish and lamb necks (from the butcher or supermarkets).

Sea Lovers is a delightful and well stocked boutique grocery store.  Most of the items are imported and the prices are eye watering.  But if you have no yoghurt mix this is the place to go.  I also bought; soft cheeses, real corn chips, antipasto, muesli and nuts.  The wine selection was good and surprisingly moderately priced. Sea Lovers is located on the opposite side of the street (there is only the one main street) and a block or two to the right of where you step off the marina ferry.  Go here after you have scoured the supermarkets. 

Maravu Butchers came well recommended (and not just because it is the only butcher in town).  It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but behind the door is an airconditioned butcher shop with fresh or frozen beef, pork and lamb, meats and sausages.  We really liked their regular beef sausage, the rump is on the tough side (we forgot to buy some of the better quality cuts, but they were available) and Taz really liked the lamb necks.

It only takes 24-36hours to get to the Lau group if you are willing to travel through the night.  We weren’t (the rally had already lost one craft to a reef).  So, we were on weather watch again.  Weather windows run over an 8-day cycle (around 360o direction change while doing so).  We found that it is moving to more of a 10-day cycle (the locals are finding the same). The winds up here are called Bogi Walu (Bogi = nights Walu = eight = eight nights of wind).  Lynn at Nawi marina was saying that the locals are thinking of changing it to Bogi Tini, because it has really moved to being a 10-day cycle.

NAVIGATION NOTES:

Nawi Marina

Nawi Marina is located on a small island on the north side of a ‘creek’ that runs past the town of Savusavu.  Radio the marina on CH16 when you get to the creek entrance and they will send out a tender to guide you in.  The channel has clear markers, although they are not lit at night, and there are a great many boats anchored off to the sides, so keep a watch out (like you wouldn’t?).

Nawi Marina is quite new and it was built to a Category 5 cyclone rating (Australian standards).  There are 137 berths.  Some of the facilities are still being completed.  We were disappointed to find that the pool and fuel dock projects are being completed in Fiji Time.  Hopefully they will be finished when we come back in August. We don’t need to refuel yet anyway, so we can wait and see how it goes.  (Even after the trip up from New Zealand, we have enough diesel on board to get down to the Lau Group and back with reserve – the wonderfulness of being a Nordhavn).

Power is accessed using NZ standard plugs.  An electrician is available to change out plugs.  There is 24hour security monitoring by real people who will actually help you if you get into trouble.

Checking-In To Fiji:

Two days before you expect to arrive in Fiji (or before you leave Opua if you won’t have reception enroute) send your Advance Notice of Arrival form to; Fiji Revenue and Customs Services (yachtsreport@frcs.org.fj), Ministry of Health (bhpu.nadi@gmail.com), Biosecurity (yachtinfo@baf.com.fj), Immigration (immigration@govnet.gov.fj) and the marina into which you are arriving (for us it was grace@nawiisland.com).  The most important recipient is the marina, as they will help to arrange all the others for your arrival (and in fact we have since found out that some of the other emails aren’t monitored anyway – but you should still send the email to them and keep a copy of it as a record of you following the rules). 

It is really, really handy to have a hardcopy of your Advance Notice of Arrival Form (C2C) for the authorities to complete when you arrive (maybe their photocopier is always out of ink, but having a copy for them to use starts things off with a smile on their dial).

Cruising Permit:

If you intend cruising around the islands of Fiji (and surely that is the point of coming here) then the next thing you will need is a cruising permit.  The paperwork for this is completed at Check In but then the actual permit needs to be collected from the Customs Office in town once it has been processed.  There were many disgruntled boaties discussing how long it took to process their permits.  We were told at Check-In that it would take 3 days. 

So, on the 3^rd day we took ourselves down to the Customs Office (we were on the doorstep when it opened), asked for our permits and volunteered that we were happy to sit and wait – smiling and speaking low and slow.  Jenny and I took our fans out of our bags to make ourselves comfy as there is no aircon or moving air in there.  Then we waited, for quite a while, but we walked out with our permits.  Some boats were waiting for 10 days; but I do not know if they followed it up personally or if there was any grumpiness displayed.

Jenny and Peter waiting.  By the time we left every chair in the building was taken up with people waiting for permits/VISAs/passports etc. – the early birds got their paperwork – eventually.

Make sure to ask how long the permit has been granted for.  It may be anything between 3 to 6 months, the only other way to find out is by translating the letter written in Fijian [3= tolu, 4= va, 5= lima, 6= ono, months= vula; Me and GoogleTranslate are like that]. 

All the permits can be extended, but not after they have expired.  On the subject of expiry dates, it is definitely worth putting a coloured postit note with the expiry dates for personal VISAs, Cruising Permits and Cat Permits, into your documents file.  None of our permits were for the same length of time – shame.  

Costs: At Check-In

Health  F$231.84

Transport for Clearance F$15 (for the boat trip across to the marina)

Immigration/Customs Overtime F$111 (we arrived on a Sunday)

Biosecurity Garbage disposal F$174.92 (no way around this one as they want to leave carrying something)

Biosecurity Clearance Inspection F$236.21 (have a Pest Plan in your boating documents file, and definitely no pork or honey on board)

Biosecurity Animal Inspection F$28.75 (yes, Taz is a cat)

Biosecurity Animal Bond F$1509 (this does get returned when we leave)

All this needed to be paid in cash at the time of arrival, so be prepared, especially if you have to bond a cat to the boat.

As usual His Furriness was the biggest issue when checking in.  The Biosecurity dude wanted to see and take away my copy of all the supporting paperwork for Taz, even though it had already been sent in for his approval letter (but this is not unusual).  We had an Authority-To-Enter from the Govt Vet (it had taken a number of emails to ensure we had that before we left Opua – and even then, it was just my printout of the email I received!)  We then handed over the hideously inconvenient amount of F$1509.00 as a bond.  The dude did not have change for a F$10 note (which is the lowest denomination you can get from a money exchange) but the lovely lassies from Customs did a coin swap with me – Vinaka ladies).  Taz is now bonded to the boat while we are in Fiji and he is ABSOLUTELY NOT ALLOWED to leave the boat.

Getting The Letter of Approval for a Manky Moggie:

I had a great deal of trouble trying to contact the authorities through the Fijian Biosecurity website.  Thanks muchly to Wendy of the catamaran Geniet Lewe for giving me the email addresses to use instead.  Geniet Lewe has travelled multiple times to Fiji with their boat cat, and I was put in contact with Wendy through the Rally.

Email Biosecurity Authority of Fiji: Susau Vafo ou <svafoou@baf.com.fj>; Dr. Bandara <bandara@baf.com.fj>; Dr. Chaminda Dissanayake <chaminda@baf.com.fj>; Dr. Keresi Lomata <Keresi.lomata@baf.com.fj>; Shaneel Kumar <shaneelk@baf.com.fj>; Niklesh Nand Ram <niklesh.ram@baf.com.fj>.

It does seem a big list, but you can’t be sure who is going to answer.

Include in the email – microchip certificate, vaccination records, record of previous travelling and quarantines, clearance document from NZMPI (from when Taz was checked into NZ last year), rabies vaccination and tests, ongoing parasite treatments and a Letter of Health from an NZ Vet (this doesn’t have to be done by an Official Govt. Vet).

Then wait for a reply that should say that permission has been granted for said boat cat to be bonded to the boat while in Fijian waters.  This needs to be presented to the Biosecurity dude/dudette when you arrive.

It’s a good thing we are really, really fond of that manky moggie.

References:

Jonathan and Donna of the charity ‘Sea Mercy’ off sailing cat ‘Chez Nous’, have lived and worked in Fiji for many years.  Jonathan was very free with his information and advice.  He is also the person who organizes boats if there is a cyclone alert, knows the local authorities and villages and seems to have the number for every tradie.

Penny and Geoff of ‘SV Last Time’ (a lovely couple who have been cruising to Fiji for decades).   We met them last Christmas and they were more than happy to share their vast experience with us – Vinaka).

The Fiji Compendium by SV Soggy Paws (I have always loved their name; the fun that catamarans can have with names).

SAS satellite imagery service

Sail South Pacific app; www.sailsouthpacific.com

Boat Works:

Clean up spilled Stanadyne from engine room (must install netting across liquids storage area so bottles don’t move during passages)